Sophisticated yet rustic, mountainous yet beach-lined, nautical yet agricultural… the island of Andros resists labels and rewards its visitors over and over.
Just two hours from the port of Rafina, northeast of Athens, Andros is the greenest of the Cyclades islands as well as the second-largest after Naxos. And it’s full of surprises. Where else could you find Venetian castles and untouched beaches, rushing rivers and abandoned watermills, a world-class modern art museum and the grand mansions of local ship-owners, as well as well-marked hiking trails and dramatic precipices? For all its wealth, Andros is laid-back and discreet, shy of tourism, unlike any other in the Cyclades. It awaits discovery by the discerning traveller.
What to see and do
Andriots are above all captains, ship-owners and sailors. The main town, Hora, is full of stately homes and neoclassical buildings they erected with their earnings a century or more ago. The broad main street exudes prosperity in its marble pavements, open squares, large churches and carved marble fountain. But don’t expect glitz. Instead, the modest shops of Andros’ main town sell traditional foods, clothes and sweets.
The central square is the heart of Hora, flanked by the Archaeological Museum and buzzing cafes, with two long beaches (Paraportiani and Nimborio) spread out below. If you walk on into the oldest part of town, you’ll come to a square at the end of the promontory, occupied by a single monument to the Unknown Sailor. You could almost be standing on the prow of a liner.
Visit the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art
Hosting an exciting new exhibition each summer, the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art is reason alone to visit Andros. Past treasures have included works by Picasso, Matisse, Klee, Chagall, Rodin, Miro, Kandinsky and many more.
Head to Stenies, reflecting Andros’ seafaring past
Of all the villages in the lush hills near Hora, Stenies may be the loveliest. Camouflaged by tall trees, its grand mansions may be the highlight for sightseers, but you can also explore a 17th-century tower, an old stone bridge and a picturesque old factory with a huge waterwheel. Devote a few hours of your holiday on Andros to take in these splendid sights.
Enjoy enough beaches to fill your holidays
The beaches of Andros are little-known wonders. Some on the north are accessible only by dirt road or boat, such as Ahla, Zorkos, Ateni, Vitali, Grias and Pidima. Or if you prefer, Old Lady’s Leap with its remarkable stone pillar jutting out of the sea. Those to the south, like Agios Petros, Batsi, Chryssi Ammos, Fellos and Halkolimionas, are much easier on the tyres. Many remain just as nature intended, so bring your own umbrella and refreshments. Others have beach bars or tavernas and all mod cons.
Explore Korthi and other villages around Andros
East of Hora, Korthi could belong to another island. Wind-battered at the end of an open bay, this is a place for hikers and adventurers. From here, you can climb to the ruins of a Venetian castle and from there walk down the Dipotamata Gorge where watermills once ground Andros’ wheat. Or you could make the circuit of the pretty villages in the hills of Andros. Not afraid of dodgy roads? Drive right to the end of the island where a narrow strait separates Andros from Tinos, visiting one or more of the venerable monasteries along the way.
Hidden gems of Andros island
The Faneromeni Castle
Faneromeni Castle, or Upper Castle, stands in contrast to the even more ruined fortress at the tip of Hora. Prepare to be amazed by the view of the Aegean.
The Lighthouse
The Tourlitis Lighthouse, off the coast of Hora, is the only one in the Cyclades built on a rock in the middle of the sea.
More villages
Lamyra, Menites, Strapouries, Apikia, Vourkoti, Aladino, Messaria, Palaiopoli, Batsi, Gavrio… Strange names when you first come across them, but they’ll become familiar once you start exploring this large and varied island.
The footpaths
A network of well-marked hiking paths covers Andros. Get yourself a map and follow the arrows that will guide your journey, always with the big blue in the background.
Sariza spring in Andros
The Sariza spring in Apoikia of Andros is said to be connected with Evia. A legend claims that Pasha San Rizas, who lived on the island of Evia, lost his fez in a stream. The fez ended up in the village of Apoikia of Andros in a spring which took its name. Although the exact date of the renovation of the marble fountain of the spring remains unknown, we know that the Sariza spring was founded in 1787 at the expense and supervision of Makarios Polemis. The source was used for three reasons. The water supply of the inhabitants, for watering the estates, and for the washing of the clothes by the women of the village! The Sariza spring is rich in various minerals. The spring water is thermal. So in 1932, following a royal decree, they decided that it fights kidney diseases and more. An inscription near the source also states the following: “Hello, stranger, remember when you return to your homeland that you owe your life to me first. The amount of water from this source is constant. In the village, a factory was built for the bottling of this precious water which was once exported. Also, note that quality and reputation are often compared to the well-known French water Evian.
Visit the monasteries of Andros
Hosting an exciting new exhibition each summer, the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art is reason alone to visit Andros.Past treasures have included works by Picasso, Matisse, Klee, Chagall, Rodin, Miro, Kandinsky and many more.
Don’t forget to visit the notable byzantine monasteries which are on a half hour distance from the villas such as Panachrantos, Agios Nicholaos, Agia Marina και Agia Irini.
